Setup for aquatic turtles in small tanks
by Mary Hobson
Over the decades, I have used a great variety of cleaning methods and filtration systems. Aquatic turtles were often very hardy and good pets, but keeping their water clean was always a terrible chore. Turtles produce more waste than fish. Filters were always a disappointment, and I'd resort to changing the water-- siphoning and carrying bucket loads-- once a week. The internet changed all that.
When I first got online, I joined the only turtle discussion list that existed at the time and found a wonderful community with a wealth of knowledge. Several of the people there used a system that was highly regarded for its water quality and ease of maintenance. As soon as I started using it, my attitude toward aquatics changed instantly. They are very easy and a joy to keep.
The overall system that I use now involves a canister filter-- the Magnum 350 Deluxe model-- used along with an undergravel filter plate. After decades of vacuuming and constant water changes, this new idea seemed worth a try. But, of course, I didn't want to risk leaving my turtles in bad water, (even if it looked clean). So when I got my first Magnum/undergravel filter going, I tested the water frequently. The results were exactly as those helpful people had told me-- fabulous! I also noticed very soon that I never had problems with algae with this system. Ease of maintenance is unparalleled.
The basic concept:
Using a good canister attached to an undergravel filter plate with a thick
layer (3" or more) of gravel on top creates a complete, natural system
to clean water. The gravel layer filters the water biologically. You can
stir it up once in awhile if you want to, but it really doesn't need much
tending, because the turtles naturally turn it over in their travels about
the tank. The waste is pulled down through this natural filter, breaking
it down into small particles, which are sucked up into the canister. The
sponge prefilter removes that stuff, providing mechanical filtration. Then
the water travels through a charcoal center, which chemically cleans it.
The end product of this 3-step process is terrific.
The setup:
You can set it up anyway you want, by connecting the canister to one of the
up-tubes of the undergravel filter. (You cover the other openings with the
caps provided.) Then the output hose of the canister can be placed anywhere
you want. I like to put it on the opposite end of the tank, for maximum circulation.
I also like to add a little basket of charcoal to the output hose. I'm not
sure if it comes with the canister, or if I've found these from other filters
that are lying around, no longer being used. You can place the output hose
so it produces a little waterfall, or put it in the water for silence. I
don't really have any two aquariums set up exactly the same. I just jury-rig
things together and turn it on. There is great flexibility in how you can
configure it, so just experiment. (Ignore the instruction manual, which shows
only one setup, with the hoses right next to each other.)
Maintenance:
To maintain the system, you rinse out the canister's prefilter every week or
two. You can see it gathering "stuff" and clean it as it gets dirty,
because the canister is transparent. The charcoal can be replaced every month
or so. If you use real charcoal, you can clean it and heat it up, which will "recharge" it
and make it useful longer. Frankly, it's just easier to replace, and not
terribly expensive. Or you can use some of the mixed materials that are available
in aquarium stores. In addition to tending the canister, you need to add
water to replace that which evaporates. Exchanging water is not necessary.
I know there are people who don't believe this, some of whom are quite experienced
with other types of filtration systems. I didn't believe it either, which
is why I tested the whole concept carefully before giving up on water exchanges.
It works great. Major cleanings, where you vacuum the gravel, remove the
water and scrub everything, are necessary only once or twice a year, depending
on how well you tended the filter, how many turtles, etc.
Additional benefits:
I use lots of aquatic plants because these provide some of the best nutrition
possible for aquatic turtles. Other filters clog up with bits of plants.
Since this system pulls the plant bits downward, to be naturally broken up
in the gravel, there is never a problem with clogging. Also, because the
suction pulls everything down through a large surface area, there is no "hot
spot" of suction to entrap small turtles, so it's an ideal setup for
weak or tiny turtles. Of course, you have to be careful that your uptake
hose is firmly connected to the UG filter plate. If it gets loose, it would
act like other canister filters, and create an area of powerful suction.
Disadvantages:
I have heard that the Magnum canister doesn't work well with sand substrate,
so the whole thing might not be best for people with softshell turtles who
use that substrate. I've also heard that the vacuum that comes with the Pro
model is too powerful, and gravel is sucked up into the canister, where it
can damage the impeller. Don't bother to buy it, and don't use it; you don't
need it anyway. There are inexpensive, self-starting siphons that do a good
job, when you want to vacuum the gravel. I can only vouch for the Magnum
350 Deluxe (using the media cartridge, not the water polisher) with this
system, because I have no experience with Fluvals or Filstars or other brands.
They might work fine, but I can't say that. If your tap water is "hard" or
contains lots of added chemicals, you might want to use bottled water. Otherwise,
as water evaporates and you add more, any minerals or chemicals in the water
would concentrate. I can't recommend the Magnum H.O.T. models with the UG
filter, because it works best with full tanks. With turtles rather than fish,
we usually don't keep the tanks full enough. I have one, and used it for
a few years, but it was a bit of a pain to restart with half-full tanks.
I can only recommend the system for tanks under 75 gals. Above that, you
would probably want to add an additional filter, perhaps two Magnum/UGF setups
in one tank. If you use too little gravel, there may be times when a portion
of the UGF plate is exposed. The biological component of the system will
not function then. However, the normal high and low points of gravel that
naturally develop and change as the turtle moves about the tank seem to have
no effect-- the system continues to work fine. It's also important to know
that the canister must be lower than the water level to work correctly. With
a raised tank on any kind of stand, you can place the canister on the floor.
If your tank is on the floor, the canister might not work correctly.
The gravel issue:
Some turtle keepers have concerns about using gravel. They have heard the myth
that it kills turtles. In fact, we know from research with wild turtles,
that they eat gravel in the wild and it doesn't harm them. It may serve some
purpose in digestion, but that is not established. What we do know is that
small pieces of gravel pass harmlessly through the digestive tract. Since
there is no way for small gravel bits to bind together, forming a large mass,
it cannot cause an obstruction. Larger rocks can cause problems, especially
if there is no gravel available. In their quest for gravel, some turtles
will desperately try to eat larger rocks, and those do pose a risk. Another
concern that is often expressed about gravel is that it gathers "gunk" and
leads to poor water quality. That would be true in a system that does not
use an undergravel filter plate. If you use gravel, you *must* use a UGF
plate too, and vice versa.
Summary:
I have been keeping turtles for over 40 years, and have never found an easier
system to maintain, or one that produced water of this high quality in relatively
small tanks. It's such a joy to never have to deal with excess algae, or
shell rot, or any of the other common effects of poor water quality. I've
been delighted to say goodbye to hauling water back and forth. This is the
way to go if you want excellent water quality, but don't want to have to
work hard. The people who first discussed this on that old internet list
no longer seem to be active in the online turtle community, but I wish there
was some way to thank them. My life improved tremendously when I started
using this system.
Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to build enclosures
for reptiles"
Find out how to build these cages as well as arboreal cages. Full color pictures,
detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions.
http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com
